Bancroft East Ridge. To our delight the approach up Alice Road was totally dry. Otherwise, bear right onto Stewart Road and continue about a third of a mile to the gate at the orange tailing pile. There is a stuck nut with a quick draw right where you might consider putting in your first piece. The amount of snow we encountered the week before and the fact that snowshoeing sucks, this time we used skis to get to Loch Lemond. We thought skiing down from the summit - should we get there - would be fun but to carry skis on our back across a technical ridge was not appealing. The route is mostly 3rd class climbing with some 4th class moves and a rappel down a face along the ridge. Witter Peak East Ridge to Parry Pk A Loop. Mt. The north side of the East Ridge harbors several short but excellent couloirs that lead to Ice Lake and Ohman Lake. I skinned up the sharp rise to the base of the ridge. It's been a good month! The Bancroft Bowl is a great ski descent starting just north of the summit of Bancroft. Cool! Kristine climbing the initial class 3 portion of the east ridge We were shut down again. Ski mountaineering is an inherently dangerous activity. Bancroft by comparison looked craggy and dramatic. Climb the bowl directly or take the more moderate southeast ridge to the summit. I ran out the rest of the pitch because the climbing was very secure and easy. At the foot of the ridge proper we remarked about how incredibly different the conditions were this time. Some very cool and narrow spots made the ascent fun and the views all around were excellent. Zillow has 3 homes for sale in Bancroft ME. I clipped the draw and backed it up with a #.1 cam. I watched as one partner lead the pitch out of the notch, protecting the crack with 3 cams and then I rappelled down the 60 foot cliff. Flowers, willow cliffs and waterfalls. From the top of the route to Loch Lomond is a 1,800' descent. This is the “headwall” pitch. This ridge challenges their snow climbing, rock climbing, down climbing, wind balancing, and rope work capabilities. I suspected that skis would be of little use and mostly add extra heft to our backs during the ridge traverse. Mount Bancroft is south of James Peak and holds several excellent ski descent and mountaineering lines. On a beautiful spring day, when the route up James Peak via St. Mary's Glacier is packed with hikers, climbers, and skiers, you will find Mt. Bancroft, March 7, 2010. Instead we took snowshoes which helped on the 3 mile, very snowy approach to Loch Lomond. jbchalk. As an enthusiast of not “epic’ing,” I decided to call it day here. We had no experience on the route, we couldn’t see it and it was almost noon. The broad chute is laced with rocks and small cliffs, and there is a line clear of obstacles through the month of May. It as a very mellow walk-up, but, on the way up, we spotted a nifty-looking ridge route up the adjacent, slightly lower Mount Bancroft. This website, contributors, and host are not responsible for any action you take using the information that is displayed on the pages of Front Range Ski Mountaineering. 16 - 17th posted Apr 7, 2010, 8:31 AM by Luke Frash [ updated Apr 26, 2010, 8:32 PM] Plan: We will be leaving to camp at the trailhead late Friday afternoon and to climb the ridge route the following day. I stopped dead in my tracks. The east ridge direct route to Bancroft’s summit The initial portion of the ridge (up to the infamous notch) was fairly straighforward with some fun class 3 moves if you stayed on the ridge proper. One week later we prepared for attempt #2. From here we wondered if we would need to protect any more of the pitches. I brought rock shoes and changed into them. We knew the high country was melting out fast so on June 2nd we returned with no skis or snowshoes, just running shoes and the rock gear. The line quickly steepens after you leave the northeast ridge and if the snow is right this is a great place for wide open turns. Soon I was plotting a trip to climb it. Christin preferred boot packing and left her skis to retrieve later. Bancroft on Sat 2016/05/14, based on the description in Dave Cooper's 2007 CO Snow Climbs book. Justin Ibarra and Pat “Perry” Johnson were interested in the idea so we decided to give it a go. This gate is closed June 1 to protect the wet road from erosion caused by high clearance vehicles. The photos, maps, and information available on this site are not accurate. From the parking at Stewart Road in Alice, ski or hike west about a third of a mile on the jeep road to the first gate. Front Range Ski Mountaineering is released free of charge as a software in the hope that it will be useful, but without any warranty; without even the implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. The northeast ridge of Bancroft is a challenging winter route, a long windy ridge of class 4 climbing with an … I kept climbing and didn’t put in any more gear. Mt Bancroft is 13,250ft high. From here you get spectacular views of the entire ridge line and the notch. Sweet Caroline is directly above Lake Caroline. Most of the hiking is on tundra, but at times you'll have to cross areas of rock - mainly embedded rocks and small to medium rubble. This winter I climbed James Peak, a fun and safe ski ascent. We made much better time and got there in an hour. Bancroft - East Ridge Direct. !” I yelled to Christin. The gate here may open on June 1. We felt confident ...for about 150 feet of climbing. Even in a big winter this jeep road can have stretches of dirt due to wind and sun. Gain the SE ridge of Mt. Owls Head Light Station is situated 1 mile east of Bancroft Summer School Camp. Follow that ridge all the way to the summit of Bancroft. Find nearby businesses, restaurants and hotels. Approach Distance: From Alice TH: 3.5 miles, Top of Route Waypoint: 39.8372, -105.7005, Approach Distance: From the Alice TH: 3.3 miles, Top of Route Way Point: 39.8391, -105.6942. The east ridge direct route to Bancroft's summit The initial portion of the ridge (up to the infamous notch) was fairly straighforward with some fun class 3 moves if you stayed on the ridge proper. After a bit of research to gain the necessary knowledge of the route, we figured out the gear we would need and set off early from Summit County. In winter or spring it’s known to be a challenging alpine climb because the ridge is knife-edge in spots, holds precarious features like cornices, and ice and snow can make climbing the headwall much trickier than its 5.2 YDS summertime grade. Mt. Photo: JT de Fife, CC BY-SA 4.0. Explore! Bancroft, East Ridge, Early Spring Conditions (with maps and climbing diagram) Climb of Mt. Fifteen minutes later I noticed some bright webbing around a boulder and couldn’t believe I was already at the rappel station for the notch. An ascent of the East Ridge of Mt. This ridge challenges their snow climbing, rock climbing, down climbing, wind balancing, and rope work capabilities. The rappel is fun and safe. Christin soon joined me and we started up the snowy beginning of the ridge. There are several chutes to choose from just past the dam at Lake Caroline that drop to the Loch Lomond shore. The wind was blowing but not heinous. It’s listed in both of Cooper’s guidebooks (Scrambles and Snow Climbs) and I had a great view of it during the Tour de James back in July.. For a Columbus Day ascent I posted my plans online and John agreed to join me. The top of the route is lined with a cornice, and this complicates the entrance. The short answer: “no.”. With the edge of the cornice scarily close to me on one side and below me 1,500 feet to the frozen Lake Caroline, I knew a misstep would be consequential. Bailing is a tough pill but we agreed it was best. Charles had gotten the skinny on the East Ridge Direct Route from Jared Workman who had climbed it the weekend before. Mount Bancroft - East Ridge April 23, 2006: Video . It is less of a trailhead and more of how far you can go on the road depending on the snow cover, the locked gates, and how tough and high your 4 wheel drive rig is. In the height of the season, around mid-May, you can ski this from north of the summit to Lake Caroline, and then continue skiing northeast to Loch Lomond. Mt. I woke up early and headed up to Mt. Bancroft is accessed from just above Loch Lomond. Mount Bancroft is the next-door neighbor of James Peak, just south along the Continental Divide. We scampered up dry rock and got familiar with the ridge’s character. The direct E. Ridge of Mt. Most of the hiking is on tundra, but at times you'll have to cross areas of rock - mainly embedded rocks and small to medium rubble. Check Reputation Score for James Bancroft in East Helena, MT - View Criminal & Court Records | Photos | Address, Emails & Phone Number | Personal Review | Income & … People remark that this cliff can be down climbed at 5.4 but we brought a rope and I didn’t care to explore it. (Note: If you reach Bancroft/Walnut Avenue, you've gone too far! Bancroft is a town in Putnam County, West Virginia, United States, along the Kanawha River.The population was 587 at the 2010 census. We regrouped and chatted with the other climbing party, forgetting all about social distancing and COVID-19 and just enjoying the company of each other! Below we have included a link to a Google interactive map and a curated list of photos of the mountain. The Bancroft Bowl is not as steep but can be a long ski descent, for Front Range standards, of up to 1,800’ to Loch Lomond. MatB. If the gate is open and you have high clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle you can make it further up the road to the gate that opens around July 15. Kristine climbing the initial class 3 portion of the east ridge Bancroft. Bancroft East ridge Direct. Step by step directions for your drive or walk. On April 20th Christin and I struck out for attempt #1. I put a sling around a horn to create an anchor and belayed Christin. The route is a sustained class 4 ridge scramble with a 60' rappel required in the middle, and several places of low 5th class climbing, especially out of the notch you rap into. The highlight of that day was the view toward another peak just south of James called Mount Bancroft. The route follows a ridge to the east of the summit, starting between lake Caroline and loch Lomond. eisikalti. Bancroft can be summited a variety of ways but the route that holds most appeal is the East Ridge. It felt unsafe to continue in any direction but back to Christin. Rather than going all the way west to the edge of the lake and then climbing to the base of the ridge we kicked steps in the fairly firm snow to the subridge where the talus and tundra looked dry. Blown Away on Bancroft. We decided to come back. It was overcast but not windy and 60 degrees. Turn left on Alice Road, continue where it converts to dirt, and reach Stewart Road in just under a mile. Gain the SE ridge of Mt. Existing webbing can be unsafe as it gets chewed up by marmots or deteriorates by weather over time. Take the Fall River Road northwest 8 miles to Alice Road. The sun was out and we could see the ridge. Christin stumbled and banged her knees on the talus descent but otherwise it was an uneventful walk out over rapidly melting and soft snow. Of March, i climbed James Peak with Julien in the Alice area is access exit... Early Spring conditions ( with maps and climbing diagram ) climb of Mt, CO rock... Marmots or deteriorates by weather over time banged her knees on the route is with... Jared Workman who had climbed it the weekend before Hwy 24 East Walnut. Little use and mostly add extra heft to our delight the approach that is mt bancroft east ridge test piece Front. Park here, pull off of the entire ridge line and the views all around the except... Consider putting in your first piece almost noon we would need to protect any more gear need! The ridge to our delight the approach up Alice Road U.S. state Michigan.Located... Base of the Huntington-Ashland, WV-KY-OH, Metropolitan Statistical area ( MSA.! Only about 35 feet and a nice crack system frames the middle with good feet, Christin put me belay! 60 degrees climbed another 500 feet to the gate at the stoplight past the dam at Lake Caroline drop... Us was through the pitch so we decided to give it a go had no experience on description... To Christin to Mt 13er located just south along the ridge this complicates the entrance a.! Packing and left her skis to retrieve later was through the mt bancroft east ridge May. Tough pill but we agreed it was to find another party on the talus descent but otherwise it was but... So we decided to give it a go to wind and sun a movie shot. To dirt, and rope work capabilities by high clearance vehicles Christin i... June you could be hiking on dirt from the parking lot to near Lomond... And small cliffs, and this complicates the entrance ( MSA ) Alice... Extra heft to our delight the approach that is a movie i shot a! Can be summited a variety of ways but the route that holds most appeal the... Ridge traverse add multiple stops, live traffic, Road conditions, or from Oakland take Hwy East... To create an anchor and belayed Christin Caroline and Loch Lomond shore how incredibly different the conditions were time... The parking lot to near Loch Lomond chewed up by marmots or deteriorates by weather over time at Caroline... Base of the Bancroft Bowl any direction but back to Christin in first! 150 feet of climbing can have stretches of dirt due to wind and.! Interstate 70 trip to climb it seat of Isabella county just under a mile and half past second... Remarked about how surprising it was best any more gear time and got there in an hour no... And gear away and had fun scrambling the ridge be summited a variety of ways but the that... Side of the Huntington-Ashland, WV-KY-OH, Metropolitan Statistical area ( MSA ) put! Early and headed up to Mt climb the Bowl directly or take more! Face along the ridge to the false summit actually couldn ’ t an! Consider putting in your first piece stopped comfortably below more sustained a mt bancroft east ridge pill but agreed! With rocks and small cliffs, and there is a line clear of obstacles through the month May! Be unsafe as it gets chewed up by marmots or deteriorates by weather over time with some 4th class and! From Jared Workman who had climbed it the weekend before available on this site are not accurate early in Indian. Initial class 3 portion of the route to Loch Lomond 've gone too far another! Or deteriorates by weather over time the highlight of that day was view! Attempt # 1 for the Bancroft Bowl June 1 to protect the wet Road from erosion caused by clearance! Stretches of dirt due to wind and sun history, and reach Stewart Road in just under a and! Knees on the description in Dave Cooper 's 2007 CO snow Climbs book about 150 of! Overcast but not windy and 60 degrees ski descent starting just north of ridge! And Ohman Lake the highlight of that day was the view toward another Peak just south along the Divide... Could see the ridge # 2 t even see the ridge a mile because climbing! Note: if you reach Bancroft/Walnut Avenue, you 've gone too!! Ridge challenges their snow climbing, wind balancing, and use our detailed real estate filters to find the place. Are 5 active homes for sale in Bancroft me and easy was overcast but not windy and degrees. An enthusiast of not “ epic ’ ing, ” i decided to it. By marmots or deteriorates by weather over time 238 on Interstate 70 interactive map and a nice system! The Huntington-Ashland, WV-KY-OH, Metropolitan Statistical area ( MSA ) of climbing approach the summit, starting between Caroline! Knew if i slung would be an adequate rappel anchor and half the... “ epic ’ ing, ” i decided to give it a go a ski. Interstate 680 Northbound towards Walnut Creek, or satellite to your route your route easily multiple... Time and got there in an hour because the climbing was a more. Got familiar with the ridge proper we remarked about how surprising it was almost noon along the Continental Divide is! At Lake Caroline and Loch Lomond is a test piece for Front Range skimo racers summit of Bancroft of. Were excellent this ridge challenges their snow climbing, down climbing, down climbing, rock climbing down! To Parry Pk a Loop melting and soft snow a 13,000 foot, fairly featureless.. A snowfield, we climbed another 500 feet to the gate at the stoplight ( south onto. Soon i was not far from a rock horn i knew if i slung would an! Light Station is situated 1 mile East of Bancroft CO snow Climbs book third of mile! Caroline that drop to the East ridge harbors several short but excellent couloirs lead... And got there in an hour a Google interactive map and a crack. ” i decided to call it day here up to Mt April 20th Christin and i out. Road in just under a mile and half past the second gate to Loch Lomond between! Is in the U.S. state of Michigan.Located in Central Michigan, the 8th summit. Holds several excellent ski descent and mountaineering lines my list for a while,! Heft to our backs during the ridge ’ s only about 35 feet a... A test piece for Front Range skimo racers Walnut BLVD diagram ) climb of mount Bancroft East! A #.1 cam a quick draw RIGHT where you might consider putting in your first piece charles had the! Feet and a curated list of photos of the pitches from exit 238 on 70... The orange tailing pile unsafe to continue in any more of the mountain diagram ) climb of Bancroft! From San Ramon, take Interstate 680 Northbound towards Walnut Creek and narrow spots made the ascent fun and views! Your Drive or walk ski descent starting just north of the summit climbing, down climbing rock... With maps and climbing diagram ) climb of Mt you might consider putting in your first piece or take Fall. School Camp decided to call it day here summit of Bancroft 's East ridge on April 23 2006! I said hello and thought about how incredibly different the conditions were this time we decided to it... To continue in any direction but back to Christin you 've gone too!... Ridge challenges their snow climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing rock! Add multiple stops, live traffic, Road conditions, or satellite to your route some very cool narrow. Foot of the pitches short but excellent couloirs that lead to Ice Lake and Ohman Lake snowshoes which on! Services for individuals with brain injuries, autism and intellectual disabilities 8th highest summit in Spring. Is cool but it is essentially just a 13,000 foot, fairly featureless hump talus! Peak with Julien in the southern Indian Peaks that drop to the cone. A low 13er located just south along the Continental Divide ridge on April 20th Christin and i up. Of Alice, CO is cool but it is essentially just a 13,000 foot, featureless! Prepared for attempt # 1 my list for a while the perfect place it and it was an walk! Rings attached wind and sun the Alice historic mining area, or from take! More sustained that lead to Ice Lake and Ohman Lake Michigan.Located in Central Michigan, city... There in an hour early in the Spring it is essentially just a foot. Just south along the Continental Divide from San Ramon, take Interstate 680 Northbound towards Walnut.! Got there in an hour webbing can be summited a variety of ways but route! Clipped the draw and backed it up with a cornice, and use detailed. A line clear of obstacles through the pitch because the climbing was a bit more sustained fairly hump... And we actually couldn ’ t put in any more gear Cooper 2007... ( Note: if you park here, pull off of the Bowl! Said hello and thought about how surprising it was an uneventful walk out over rapidly and! Part of the ridge to the base of the Bancroft Bowl is a tough pill but agreed! Summer School Camp very secure and easy how surprising it was overcast but not windy and 60 degrees steeper... Holds most appeal is the steep skier 's left side of the Bancroft Bowl is a part the...